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By Robert De Groat
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| Scout knife well sharpened. | |
| Veiner or parting tool. | |
| Short bend or spoon gouge. | |
| Back bent gauge. | |
| Small hack saw. | |
| A work bench, bench hook and wooden vise. |

| Scout axe, well ground and sharpened. | |
| Two-man or buck saw, smaller saws. | |
| Large felling axe. | |
| Heavy 1 1/2 inch chisels, one flat, another half-round. | |
| Heavy gouges, at least two sizes. | |
| Adze. |
In carving larger poles it is sometimes handier to have the pole raised up on horses, thus bringing the work to a more convenient height.



The North American natives quickly adopted and utilized the fine steel of the white man's axes and files, finding that with such tools they could work much more rapidly and produce better results.

Nowadays willow wood is used for the handles of adzes. A Scout can saw an axe in two pieces and have two adze blades. Or he can grind down a file.
The handle can be carved from willow wood and a thong used to bind the blade to the handle.
Quills of feather were inserted by the Indians to take up any slack.
The wood carver must be able to sharpen, set and keep his tools in order. Remember that:
| Tools require grinding on grindstone. | |
| Whetting on oil stone or slips. | |
| Finally (for smaller tools) stropping on a leather strop. |

Often tools are sold which are already ground. These need to be whetted and stropped.
If possible secure a grindstone provided with a pedal for foot power. Thus both hands will be free to hold the tool while grinding. Flat stones require more manipulation and are much harder to use.

The stone is revolved away from the person. The tools must be held to give long slope, at least a 60 degree slant. When the thickness of the cutting edge is ground down, it must be whetted by rubbing on an oil stone. The white line must not be visible when the eye looks down upon the cutting edge when it is held against the light. Both sides of most tools must be sharpened.

Straight-edged tools--chisels, skews--must be whetted on both sides and on an oil stone. Curved tools are sharpened on specially shaped stones, "slips," because inside and outside edges require sharpening. The V-shaped tool requires a wedge-shaped slip for sharpening.
When grinding chisels, skews, straight or oblique, hold them in the right hand, press upon the shank with the fingers of the left hand to secure a flat surface. Move tools across the stone right and left as stone revolves. Do not hold in one position as ruts are likely to be worn in tool. When the edge is sufficiently thin rub tool on oil stone which has been covered with thin coat of any good oil. When sufficiently whetted, strop to clean up edge. Strop may be made of a good piece of buffed leather, 8 inches by 2 inches. This is covered with paste of tallow or crocus powder. Hold strop straight and firm. Draw tool down evenly and quickly toward you. Repeat this until tool has fine edge.
When grinding gouges and flutes, you will find more difficulty in the sharpening process. Their convex side must be next to stone and a rolling movement kept up from side to side to attain even convexity over whole edge.

For general purposes keep the edges level. After grinding these, they may be whetted on flat oil stone by rolling motion on the convex side. Tools with decided curvature are better whetted on flat side of "slip" held in left hand so that the cutting edge may be watched. For the inside of the tool a slip with plenty of oil and an edge to fit the curve is best. Be sure to hold slip at an angle with tool. Flat gouges are stropped by laying edge flatly on leather. Larger gouges may be rubbed on ridge of strop formed by rounding or squeezing up strop into a round form. To sharpen small V-shaped tools shape pieces of wood in strips to fit inside and cover with crocus paste.
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